Final port of call: Amsterdam (by Jessica)

The Dutch are a very privileged bunch.  Not only are they tall, lean and beautiful with wavy blonde hair and an impeccable sense of style, but they have a capital city that is a fairytale come true of clean canals, civilized bicycle traffic, charming brick row houses and silent trams gliding through the city’s main roads.  I’m sure that the modern Dutch might disagree with my overly positive first impressions; they might grumble about immigrants, or extreme right-wing politics, or the constant winter rain, but all in all Amsterdam is one of the most idyllic cities in the world.

We arrived to a misty rain in the evening and dragged our suitcases about a kilometre to the Movenpick Hotel.  Our luggage, being only 15kg each plus a backpack, is not particularly heavy or awkward, but also carrying an umbrella is an added juggle.  The hotel was a bit out of the way, but it was a steal on Priceline in pricey Amsterdam, and we stayed there very comfortably for two nights.  It was around 9pm and we were starving, so we checked out the “curry night” in the hotel restaurant.  For once the hotel restaurant wasn’t an overpriced morgue, but instead a social, lively place.  Our curries were decidedly watered down but OK…and Amsterdam is not particularly known for its cuisine.

Tummies full and spirits refuelled, we headed out into the night, determined to enjoy our evening.  This is, after all, the last destination on our itinerary.  Our epic trip is quickly coming to an end!  We headed to the happening Leidseplein neighbourhood and came back around 12:30pm on the last tram, having felt like we’d seized the day and being thoroughly exhausted from a day of travel and a slight one hour jet lag.

We awoke to grey but dry skies; all that we could ask for from the Fall weather.  Beneath the hotel we rented two very Dutch bikes, equipped with one bell, three gears and two mega locks.  We set off onto the cycling highway and explored the quiet side streets of canals and leaning houses.  Amsterdam’s signature old houses are all tall and skinny, much like its people, and were built on a slight outward angle with hooks on the top.  These hooks are to better allow moving in furniture, which is hoisted up on the hooks and put through the windows.  The angle helps avoid anything smashing into the window below.  I would have liked to have seen these in action, but maybe today the furniture it brought up on pneumatic hoists or some other type of sturdy machinery?  The Dutch would know.

It was a chilly day and I was looking for some Dutch comfort food.  Pizza and pasta are it.  We stopped for lunch at a nice little place that advertised 5 euro pizzas.  If you don’t feel like pizza, which is available on every street, then you can pop into one of the dozens of trendy Argentinean steak houses with semi-catchy Spanish names.  Whether the beef is from Argentina is questionable, but at least the concept seems to have caught on regardless of authenticity.

Back in the saddles, we rode to the Van Gogh museum, where we spent a few great hours following the life of this fantastic Dutch artist.  I have never left a museum feeling like I knew about the artist…until now.  The Van Gogh museum is like travelling through the artist’s life through his art.  Large posters explain what he was living through at each period, and how the art reflected his growth as a person and as an artist.  He was a prolific, daring artist who was self-taught and completely broke, but thankfully sponsored by his brother who believed in him.  He died in tragic circumstances, by his own hand driven to madness, perhaps by syphilis, at a young age.  His loving brother died shortly afterwards, and Vincent, as he signed all of his paintings, was buried in the South of France, where he spent his most inspired years painting his colourful pieces known the world over.  Oli and I played a game where we each had to choose just one painting, a favourite.  He chose Sunflowers and I chose Almond Blossoms, both of which are available on a paperweight, t-shirt, bicycle or traditional poster in the gift shop for great sums of money.  If only Vincent could see his work now.

By the time we left the museum it was sunny!  We followed Vondelpark, which was packed with Amsterdammers enjoying the rays.  Beside the park we found some extremely nice residential streets that we rode around until the sun set.  That night we went to see Boom Chicago, an American improv comedy troupe and Amsterdam institution that produces hilarious shows for tourists and locals alike.  The Sunday night crowd was big and lively and the energy made the four performers even funnier.  We laughed until our guts hurt and I admire their on-the-spot skills for making any phrase, word or suggestion into an entire song or skit…and very funny at that.  The more ridiculous, the better.  They poked fun at the Dutch, which made the locals laugh louder than ever, and we left with plans to go back the next night for a different show for only 5 euros.  What a deal!

Our second day and the weather wasn’t as cooperative as the first.  It was rainy, but we weren’t deterred.  After two nights at the Movenpick, it was time to switch to the Pulitzer, a unique hotel in the city that spreads between several traditional row houses.  Oli worked his Starwood magic once again, with the last of our hotel points for the big finish.  Each house still has its own style and the place is a maze to navigate all the different levels, hallways and ups and downs.  Its central courtyard must be great in nice weather, but we just saw it in the drizzle.  Their computers were down when we arrived, so they served us some tea and coffee until they were back online.  Nice touch.  Our room was on the ground floor with a canal view and very high ceilings; lots of “old world charm” as they would say in a brochure.

We decided to do a bit of shopping, since we were carrying many summer clothes and only one or two cool weather tops and pants.  In just a few short days we’d arrive in Montreal, where the weather would be cool and we’d be stuck in the same old things.  We checked out a nearby shopping street and split up for a little while, which seems to be the most painless and efficient way to shop as a couple.  I hit the jackpot in one store and bought two pairs of jeans (they fit!) and a long-sleeved top, which will be enough to tide me over.

That night we decided to have a nice dinner before our second Boom Chicago show and found a great tapas restaurant for a Spanish meal.  A man singing songs from Uruguay entertained the room, but the kitchen was slow. We ended up eating in a hurry to make our show.  At least it was tasty!  The show was half full, so the energy wasn’t the same as the previous night, but I had the fun of throwing out a few suggestions on which to base their improv skits.  It was funny, but not the uproarious laughter from the previous night.  Still worth the five euros, though!

Our third and final day in Amsterdam… is not only our final day in Amsterdam, but the final day of our entire journey!  We’ve both been pretty contemplative these past few days, savouring and yet finding each moment bittersweet.  Each evening we’ve been putting together a bunch of “top ten” lists from our trip as a way to remember all of our highlights, low lights and crazy adventures.  To add to the drama, the final day is also my birthday!  No time for tears and morose faces.  It’s time to celebrate!

Instead of being at work in the office, which has been my usual birthday for the past few years, we were together in beautiful Amsterdam, wandering the city hand in hand, going in whichever direction we wanted, doing whatever pleased us that day.  It wasn’t raining, and so the wandering was easy and we walked for a few hours.  I knew that Oli had planned a nice dinner for us, but we were without schedule for the last time.  After a well-deserved nap, we walked to dinner at Little Buddha, the sister location in Paris where we’d eaten a few years ago.  The food was good and the atmosphere cool but relaxed.  There was no singing or birthday candle, but then my travel dreams have already come true.  What would I wish for on the candle?  Continued good health, love, happiness… and that one day our future children will be able to see the world, too.

I could tell you about our flight home (uneventful), but I’ll skip that part.  Instead, I’ll share some of our top ten lists.  Stay tuned!

our road worthy Dutch bikes

bikes and canals

the giant museum (didn’t have time for this one)

porsche in the drive

Vondel park

posh and pretty neighbourhood

all you need is a bike

house boats

on my birthday

our room with a canal view

Febo, where locals buy ready-to-eat burgers from vending machines

gargoyle

Boom Chicago skit

moving hooks

bikes and canal

green and orange

birthday dinner!

Hotel Pulitzer halls

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